Commercial Dog Foods
Selecting the best commercial foods
Here are the things that I look for in a commercial food:
No generic fats or proteins (e.g., animal fat or meat meal) -- instead, look for named sources such as beef fat, chicken fat or lamb meal (the generic term indicates a mixture coming from a number of sources, a sign of a very poor quality food). I don't consider poultry fat as bad as animal fat, but chicken fat is better. Never feed a food that uses the generic ingredients "meat meal", "meat and bone meal", or "animal fat".
Human grade ingredients (USDA approved). This item is somewhat controversial, as dog foods by law cannot be labeled human grade, but I look for companies that use human grade meats (not meats that were rejected by the human food industry). For even higher quality, look for hormone- and antibiotic-free meats, especially those that are free-range or pasture-raised (note that all poultry is hormone-free, as it is against regulations to give hormones to poultry).
Avoid foods that use corn gluten meal, a cheap waste product from the human food industry that provides incomplete protein for dogs. I consider this ingredient to be one of the hallmarks of poor quality foods. Wheat gluten meal, one of the ingredients that caused illness and death due to contamination in the recent Menu Foods recall, is similar -- a cheap source of poor quality protein used primarily by the lower-quality foods. Rice protein concentrate, which was also involved in the pet food recalls, is a little better quality than the other two, but still provides incomplete plant protein rather than the more desirable animal protein. Soy protein has the same problem.
No meat by-products or digest (meal is OK). There is some disagreement whether whole meat is preferable to meal. Meal has been rendered, but it is also dried, so if a meal is listed as the first ingredient, there is greater likelihood that the food contains more meat than grains. When whole meats such as chicken, lamb, turkey, etc. are listed as the first ingredient, there may actually be much less meat due to the weight of the moisture in the meat. Both whole meats and meals are considered acceptable as long as they are identified and not generic (e.g., not "meat meal" or "meat and bone meal"). By-products may be OK if the company specifies that they are human-grade organs such as liver and kidney, but otherwise they usually signify parts not considered fit for human consumption.
No BHA, BHT or Ethoxyquin (artificial preservatives), another sign of a low quality food. Ethoxyquin is banned from use in foods for human consumption except for the use of very small quantities as a color preservative for spices. Note that ethoxyquin is used to preserve fish meal, which will not be disclosed on the dog food label since it is added before the fish meal reaches the manufacturing plant. In general, unless the manufacturer provides a statement on their web site that the fish meal in their food does not contain ethoxyquin, you can assume that is does. Contact the manufacturer if you are unsure.
See Risk Ingredients Not Listed on Pet Food Labels for more information.
No artificial colors, no sugars and sweeteners (such as corn syrup, sucrose, ammoniated glycyrrhizin), no propylene glycol (added to some chewy foods to keep them moist, toxic in large amounts).
As few grains as possible (a whole-meat source should be one of the first two ingredients, preferably two of the top three) -- watch for splitting, such as listing ground yellow corn and corn gluten meal as separate ingredients which together might add up to more than the first ingredient. Note that canned foods often have fewer grains than dry.
Added taurine. Taurine was added to cat foods in the 70's when cats began going blind and dying due to taurine deficiency. Taurine is thought not to be an "essential" amino acid in dogs because they can convert carnitine to taurine. However, links are now being found between problems such as dilated cardiomyopathy and taurine deficiencies. Some dog food companies have begun adding taurine to their foods, and this is probably a good idea. Taurine is affected by heat, so there would not usually be enough natural taurine in processed dog foods, though foods that have a lot of meat will have more natural taurine. See the following for more info:
- Dietary Taurine Deficiency and Dilated Cardiomyopathy in Dogs (pages 6-7)
- Dilated Cardiomyopathy: a daunting disease of the heart
- Taurine
- Taurine status in normal dogs fed a commercial diet associated with taurine deficiency and dilated cardiomyopathy
Meets AAFCO Specifications. Although I do not consider AAFCO to know everything there is to know about nutrition, if a food specifies that it meets AAFCO specifications, it should be a complete diet. It is fine to use foods that do not meet AAFCO specifications as part of the diet, but you cannot rely on these foods as the sole source of nutrition without adding other foods and supplements to the diet.
Note that I am not overly concerned about menadione, a synthetic form of vitamin K that has many people worried (see The Dog Food Project, for example). See the section on Menadione in one of my articles on homemade diets for more information on this topic.
See Also:
- In-depth reviews and information on commercial foods:
- Selecting a Commercial Pet Food offers details of what to look for in a commercial food.
- Dog Food Comparison Tool from Natura that allows you to see and compare the ingredients in different foods, plus offers in-depth information on each ingredient if you click on it.
- Pet Food Labels: What You Don’t See is Important! has more information on how to compare different foods.
- How to Choose Dog Food article from The Whole Dog Journal is available online and gives some additional "food for thought."
- Earl Wolfe's Dog Food Comparison Charts have both generic and specific ingredient info on almost all foods, though this site does not appear to be being updated and so the information is increasingly out of date.
- You can also read about the ingredients that go into poor quality pet foods in Food Even a Dog Shouldn't Eat and get more information from the article What's Really in Pet Food?
Best Diet?
There is no "best" food for all dogs, as each dog is an individual, and what works well for one dog may not work at all for another. In addition, it is better for a dog to get a variety of foods, rather than just one food for its whole life. Feeding different commercial diets can help fill in nutritional gaps that a particular food or brand might have, as well as making it less likely that your dog will develop food allergies.
Rather than trying to find a single, "best" food, I recommend that you choose at least two or three different brands, using different protein sources, and rotate between them, anywhere from a daily basis to every few months. Variety is always better than feeding any single food, as it helps to guarantee that all of your dogs' nutritional needs are met and is more interesting for your dogs. The only warning I have about feeding a lot of variety is to not feed every exotic protein available (duck, rabbit, venison, etc.); always reserve one or two in case you ever need to do an elimination diet using a food your dog has never had before to test for food allergies.
In addition, I suggest adding some fresh foods to the diet, no matter what you feed, including eggs and meat (raw or cooked), canned fish with bones (jack mackerel, pink salmon, sardines), dairy (yogurt, kefir, cottage cheese) and healthy leftovers (see Adding Fresh Foods for more info). This can be used to improve the quality of whatever diet you feed.
When you feed the same food continuously for a month or more, be sure to make the switch gradually to avoid digestive upset, but dogs that are used to getting different foods all the time rarely have any problems with it.
Exotic proteins and limited ingredient diets
Just a note about using foods with exotic proteins, such as duck, venison, buffalo, rabbit, trout, kangaroo, ostrich, emu, beaver, goat, quail, pheasant, eel, etc. These foods are formulated to be able to offer proteins that a dog has never had before for dogs with food allergies. I do not recommend feeding them to healthy dogs who have no allergies. If you feed these foods routinely, then if your dog does develop food allergies in the future, it is going to be very difficult for you to find a protein that he has never had before in order to try an elimination diet. I would reserve most of these exotic protein foods for dogs who have food problems and need a special diet. Also, if you have a dog with digestive problems, don't just keep trying different foods, as they are more likely to become allergic to new ingredients while problems are occurring. If the first new diet doesn't work, you'll need to talk to your vet about using medications to get the problem under control before introducing any more new foods.
Corn, wheat, soy and other so-called common allergens
Foods considered to be "common allergens" for dogs are simply the foods most commonly fed. In other words, dogs are not inherently more likely to be allergic to corn, wheat, soy, rice, beef or chicken, etc., but they are more likely to be allergic to common ingredients in foods that they've been fed. Food allergies are also more likely to develop if the dog is fed the same food all the time.
There can be other problems with certain foods, especially grains. Gluten intolerance can cause digestive problem for some dogs. Sources of gluten include wheat (including Kamut and spelt), barley, rye, and triticale; oats are considered questionable (oats are gluten-free but processed oats can be contaminated with gluten), while buckwheat, corn/maize, and rice are gluten-free. Certain grains can contain molds or storage mites that can cause an allergic reaction. I don't believe that grains should ever be a large part of a dog's diet, but I don't consider corn or wheat to be worse than other grains, unless your dog has a specific problem with these foods. Keep in mind that corn gluten meal is a waste product from the human food industry used as a cheap source of low-quality protein and is a hallmark of a poor quality food.
I also don't consider it necessary to avoid using products that contain soy, as long as it is a small part of the diet, and used in place of grains or other plant products, rather than as a primary protein source in place of meat. Again, if your individual dog has a problem with soy, then you should avoid foods that use it.
The following web sites have some interesting information on food allergies and intolerances:
- Food Allergies
- Food Allergy Myths
- Dietary Sensitivity--More Common than You Think?
- The Pet Food Ingredient Game
High-Protein Diets
Contrary to many myths and popular beliefs, there is no harm in feeding a high-protein diet to dogs of any age, including puppies (see Large and giant breed puppies below) and seniors (see Senior and overweight dogs below and my article on Diet and the Older Dog for more information). Studies have proved that protein does not cause orthopedic problems in puppies, nor lead to kidney disease in older dogs. In fact, protein is extremely beneficial: it supports the immune system and the central nervous system, contributes to wound healing, helps build lean muscle, and is required for skin and coat health.
Even most dogs with kidney disease benefit from a moderate-protein rather than low-protein diet (see my Kidney Disease web page for additional info). There are very, very few health conditions where a lower-protein diet is needed, and even then, it's extremely important to feed adequate protein, as protein malnutrition will cause the body to break down its own muscle tissue to get what it needs, leading to muscle wasting and other serious problems. Even mild protein deficiency can significantly impair immune function. Dogs who get too little protein are also more susceptible to stress, including stress from injury or infection.
Dogs thrive on protein, the more the better. There is absolutely no reason to limit the amount of protein you feed your dog. Look for foods that are high in protein, rather than the typical high-carbohydrate diets that are more commonly available. Dogs have no nutritional need for carbohydrates; they are used in dog food mostly as an inexpensive source of calories (grains are also used to supply low-quality protein in some foods), and to help bind dry food together into kibble. Studies indicate that high-protein, low-carb foods with moderate amounts of fat also help dogs lose weight better than the traditional high-carb, low-fat (and often low-protein) weight loss diets.
There are a number of newer, high-protein, low-carbohydrate diets now being offered, for both adult and senior dogs. Some of these are also OK for puppies, if approved for them or for all life stages, but be careful of any with very high calcium percentages (best to stick to 2% or less calcium on a dry matter basis for large-breed puppies under the age of six months). Some of the high-protein diets are also quite high in fat (20% or more), which is appropriate for very active dogs, but not for those who aren't.
You can also increase the protein levels in whatever diet you feed by adding some fresh, high-protein foods, such as meat, eggs, yogurt, cottage cheese, and canned fish with bones (jack mackerel, pink salmon, sardines). See Adding Fresh Foods to a Commercial Diet for more info.
If you have a dog that is hyper-reactive to outside stimuli, you may be interested in How High Carbohydrate Diets Can Affect Some Dogs by noted behaviorist William Campbell suggesting a possible cause being a high carbohydrate diet.
Large and giant breed puppies
Large and giant breed (or any breed prone to hip dysplasia) puppies should be fed a restricted diet to slow growth. Overfeeding encourages them to grow too fast, resulting in most of the bone and joint problems common in large breeds, including dysplasia, osteochondrosis, etc. Limit the amount you feed to keep your pup lean and slow-growing.
Never give supplemental calcium of any kind when feeding a commercial diet. Feeding an adult food to a puppy may cause excessive calcium intake, as the adult food might have more calcium for the same amount of calories than a puppy food would, while not providing the other nutrients required by puppies.
You should always feed puppies foods that are approved either for puppies or for all life stages. If you feed a food that is approved for adult dogs only, there will be inadequate amounts of protein, and improper levels of calcium and other nutrients. Large Breed Puppy Formulas may not be the answer, as they often replace protein with carbohydrates. Protein and carbohydrates contain exactly the same number of calories per gram, so reducing protein in favor of carbohydrates provides less needed nutrition without reducing calories. High protein diets are preferred, as puppies need protein to thrive and studies have shown that high protein does not lead to developmental problems, but high fat diets may contribute too many calories, leading to rapid growth. See the following articles for more information:
"Effects of limited food consumption on the incidence of hip dysplasia in growing dogs", by RD Kealy et al., in JAVMA, Vol. 201, No. 6, Sept. 15, 1992 (pp 857-863), "On the basis of our findings in the long-term study reported here, limited food intake has a beneficial effect on development of the hip joints in growing and adolescent dogs. Labrador Retrievers fed 25% less food than those fed ad libitum had less hip joint laxity when they were 30 weeks old than their ad-libitum-fed counterparts. Furthermore, by maintaining the dogs on the same feeding regimen until they were 2 years old, this beneficial effect was still present at that age, as demonstrated by the significantly lower frequency of hip dysplasia in the limit-fed dogs."
Are high calcium diets related to bone disease? "While feeding a special formula large breed puppy food to your puppy is not bad, there are no concrete studies that show it is better than a balanced puppy food formulated for all puppies."
Overfeeding During Growth "Overfeeding during the phase of rapid growth after weaning is linked to a variety of multi-factorial skeletal diseases including osteochondrosis, hip dysplasia, hypertrophic dystrophy and wobbler syndrome. A high protein diet (30% on a dry matter basis) does not increase the frequency or severity of skeletal abnormalities in giant breed dogs. So the excess weight during the period of rapid growth, rather than the protein content of the diet, is probably the factor which alters skeletal development.
Relationship of Nutrition to Developmental Skeletal Disease in Young Dogs "Excessive dietary energy may support a growth rate that is too fast for proper skeletal development and results in a higher frequency of skeletal abnormalities in large and giant-breed dogs Because fat has twice the caloric density of protein or carbohydrate, dietary fat is the primary contributor to excess energy intake. . . . Unlike other species, protein excess has not been demonstrated to negatively affect calcium metabolism or skeletal development in dogs. Protein deficiency, however, has more impact on the developing skeleton."
Dietary Mineral Levels Affect Bone Development in Great Dane Pups "Controlling skeletal growth is considered critical in decreasing the expression of developmental bone disease in large and giant breed puppies. For these puppies, intake of calories and calcium should be restricted to a level that supports an adequate, but not excessive growth rate. If large and giant breed puppies are given unrestricted access from weaning to a puppy food with usual mineral and energy content, high mineral intakes may quickly result in bone mineral changes that could contribute to persistent skeletal problems."
The optimal growth of large breed puppies "Excessive food intake (calories) during growth results in a higher risk of developing HD. . . . Research into the growth of Great Danes (Nap RC, The Netherlands,) has shown that the protein level of a diet has no significant influence on skeletal development. High protein intake does not result in increased risk for OCD or HD, and there is no effect on the development in the longitudinal growth of the bone."
See Also:
- Canine Hip Dysplasia
- Unilateral Hip Dysplasia
- Feeding Puppies An Adult Food
- Successfully Raising the Large Breed Puppy
Senior and overweight dogs
Senior and overweight dogs are often fed foods that are lower in protein and higher in carbohydrates, which is a bad idea. Recent research indicates that older dogs need MORE protein than younger dogs, not less. Carbohydrates provide less nutrition than protein and can lead to weight gain. Feed senior and overweight dogs a diet that is high in protein, with low carbs and moderate amounts of fat (too little fat leaves your dog feeling hungry all the time, which can make it harder for them to lose weight). I have notations in the lists of recommended foods about which companies offer higher-protein senior and weight loss foods.
See my articles for more information:
Also see the following for more information on this topic:
- Seven secrets to successful canine weight loss
- Demystifying Myths About Protein
- Fortify The Food Bowl For The Aging Canine
- Pudgy Pups
- High-Protein Low-Carbohydrate Diets Enhance Weight Loss in Dogs
- Effect of amount and type of dietary fiber on food intake in energy-restricted dogs
- Premium Edge Healthy Weight | Weight Reduction Formula
- How four obese dogs lost big weight last month Article from a vet about four dogs who lost weight and who no longer acted hungry all the time by switching to a higher-protein, lower-carbohydrate food
Prescription Diets
Did you know that "prescription diet" is an unregulated marketing term? No prescription is required to buy these foods, nor do they have to meet any special requirements or get approval from the FDA or AAFCO.
Certain health conditions do require dietary changes, though prescription diets are not always the best option (they are often formulated based on outdated and disproved hypotheses). One example is Hill's Prescription u/d, prescribed for dogs prone to forming calcium oxalate stones. U/D is low in protein, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, and potassium and high in carbohydrates. Newer recommendations for dogs prone to forming CaOx stones say that diets should not be restricted in protein, calcium, or phosphorus. One study found that canned diets with the highest amount of carbohydrate were associated with an increased risk of CaOx urolith formation, and concluded that “canned diets formulated to contain high amounts of protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, sodium, potassium, chloride, and moisture and a low amount of carbohydrate may minimize the risk of CaOx urolith formation in dogs.” My article on Calcium Oxalate Stones, published in the WDJ in May 2010, will be available on my web site in November 2010 (email me if you need help before that).
In other cases, no dietary changes are needed for health conditions for which prescription diets are used, or any necessary changes can be more easily and effectively done using regular commercial foods and/or supplements. Examples:
- No prescription diet is needed to treat struvite crystals, which are normal and do not require treatment (other than of any associated urinary tract infection). My article on Struvite Stones, published in the WDJ in April 2010, will be available on my web site in October 2010 (email me if you need help before that).
- Hill's Prescription r/d and w/d are used for weight loss. These foods are high in carbs and low in fat. They are exceptionally high in insoluble fiber, primarily cellulose (sawdust), indigestible ingredients that supposedly help the dog feel full without adding calories. Studies have shown, though, that dogs fed diets that are high in protein and low in carbs, with moderate amounts of fat, are much better at helping dogs lose weight and feel satisfied than high-carb, low-fat diets. See Overweight Dogs above and my article on Weight-Loss Diets for more information.
- Hill's Prescription j/d, used for dogs with joint disease, primarily adds a small amount of fish oil, which provides omega-3 fatty acids. Fish oil breaks down when exposed to light, heat or air, so any fish oil added to dry food is likely worthless. It is simpler, cheaper and more effective to feed a better diet and add fish oil yourself. Flaxseed is also included, which provides a form of omega-3 fatty acids that is not well utilized by dogs. See Supplements for more information. J/D also adds a tiny amount of glucosamine, chondroitin and manganese. These Nutraceuticals can be helpful for dogs suffering from joint disease, but once again are best added separately to a higher-quality diet. See Supplements and Diet Guidelines for Dogs with Arthritis for more information.
- Hill's Prescription b/d, prescribed for dogs with canine cognitive function, is similar. It adds significant amounts of vitamin E along with microscopic amounts of carnitine and tiny amounts of vitamin C . It uses flaxseed to supply omega-3 fatty acids (I believe that their flaxseeds are not even ground, making them totally ineffective). Feed a higher-quality food and add fish oil and an antioxidant supplement to better achieve the goals of this food at lower cost.
- Dogs with liver disease do not need a diet change unless they are showing signs of hepatic encephalopathy or have a portosystemic shunt.
- A prescription diet is not needed for dogs with diabetes -- see the K9Nutrition FAQ for more info; also this article that concludes, "Consumption of diets with low carbohydrate, high protein, and moderate fat content may be advantageous for prevention and management of obesity, impaired glucose tolerance, and diabetes in cats and dogs."
If you do need to feed a prescription diet, IVD (now owned by Royal Canin) appears to be a little better quality than Purina, Eukanuba or Hill's. Since IVD was bought by Royal Canin, these diets no longer carry the IVD name, but can be distinguished from the Royal Canin brand by the use of the word "Formula" in their names, such as "Sensitive Formula" or "Modified Formula". See them listed under "Limited Ingredient Diets" on the Royal Canin Veterinary Diets site. The Royal Canin Hi-Tor diets for special needs may also be better quality than Hill's or Purina, though I'm not as sure of this; they can be found at Waggin' Tails. Prescription Diets are also available through RxPetFood.com and National Pet Pharmacy. Confirmation that your vet has recommended a particular food may be required.
Wysong has introduced a line of freeze-dried prescription diets for a variety of conditions. These foods can only be ordered through veterinarians. Note I don't recommend their Nephreon diet for dogs with kidney disease as it is high in phosphorus.
See Why do you really need a prescription for your dog’s food? … just follow the money! for more information.
Email me if you have questions about the diet your vet has recommended for your dog.
Melamine and Cyanuric Acid
As everyone must be aware by now, there was a massive recall of pet foods beginning in March, 2007, due to contaminants that caused kidney failure in death in thousands of pets (see my Recall page for more information). Eventually, the cause was determined to be contamination with melamine and cyanuric acid, ingredients that are often added illegally to foods in China to artificially increase their protein level. Contamination was found first in wheat gluten, then in rice protein concentrate, then in corn gluten (in South Africa), all coming from China (chicken jerky from China has also been implicated in kidney problems and death, but the cause has not been identified). Since that time, most of the better dog food companies have instituted testing for these two substances, and have taken steps to eliminate ingredients sourced from China. Unfortunately, there are a few ingredients that simply cannot be found elsewhere in quantity, including taurine, glucosamine and most B vitamins. Note that companies who say that all of their ingredients come from US companies are being disingenuous, as the original source of some parts could still be China.
Eagle Pack, whose foods are EU (European Union) certified, which requires disclosure of the country of origin of all ingredients, has this to say: "Due to the global economy and worldwide outsourcing, some ingredients or supplements are not made in the U.S. or are not made in sufficient quantity. Most pet food and human food companies and makers of supplements most likely source some supplements from China. Most B vitamins for human and pet consumption come from China. In our supplements, U.S. vitamin maker BASF sources some vitamins from China. This will be true of the vitamin content for most pet foods you buy and for many pet or human vitamins you use. The Glucosamine we humans take as well as the Glucosamine in your pet’s food most likely is sourced from China. The same is true for human grade Taurine. Some pet food makers seem unaware that some ingredients of necessity must be sourced from China; scary they don’t know."
Dental Disease
Contrary to popular belief, hard kibble does not keep teeth clean, though chewing on bones, chew toys and whole pieces of meat, etc. helps to reduce calculus and gingivitis, and there are certain types of oral hygiene kibbles designed to be chewed that can help to slow calculus accumulation, though they won't remove it. The best thing you can do to prevent periodontal disease is brushing your dog's teeth at least three times a week. This is especially important for small dogs, who are most seriously affected by periodontal disease due to the small size of their mouths which leads to crowding of the teeth and reduced bone for anchoring teeth. Existing calculus can only be removed by cleaning under anesthesia (not the type of scaling done by groomers, which does not get under the gums where the real problems lie). See the following articles for more info:
- Periodontal Disease & Dental Home Care
- Canine Dental Care
- Oral Disease in Dogs and Cats
- Wysong Dentatreat (available from Amazon)
- Correlation of diet, other chewing activities and periodontal disease in North American client-owned dogs
- Does Dry Food Clean the Teeth?
Additional information was found in Canine Nutrition and Oral Health, Philippe Hennet DVM, Dipl AVDC, Dipl EVCDEncyclopedia of Canine Clinical Nutrition.
If you have any questions or comments, please contact me. My name is Mary Straus and you can email me at either or